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Instinct VSR Rock Climbing Shoe Instinct VSR Rock Climbing Shoe Instinct VSR Rock Climbing Shoe
Instinct VSR Rock Climbing Shoe
Versatile shoe with grip and sensitivity; perfect for bouldering, sport climbing, and technical face climbing
Average weight
460g (pair, Size 40)
Midsole
Flexan 1mm
Outsole
Vibram® XS Grip2 (3.5mm)
Upper
Microsuede and leather
Thomas
Thomas Bivouac Team Member

Scarpa's Instinct VSR is an excellent outdoor all-rounder. Thriving in vert and overhanging sport and bouldering routes, the soft(ish) rubber allows enough sensitivity to read foot placement clearly through small holds, making a strong shoe for edging and smearing. The feature that stands out the most in this shoe is the super rugged toe rubber, with ridges and texture allowing for secure toe hooks. It is a slipper/Velcro combination, allowing for a secure fit, but not much fit adjustment in the lower shoe.

The shoe makes for a good beginner entry into performance-based shoes, with my break-in not being as bad as some more restrictive shoes. The shoe does fit relatively wide so cramming will be more minimal, but not as suited to narrow feet.

It is important to aim for a snug fit due to the more relaxed toe and heel, as the wider heel can be awkward on unfit sizing.

I've seen and used this shoe in many environments, indoor and outdoor. At crags, boulders and comps this shoe holds up nicely and, for a softer shoe the rubber holds well.

Fit tip:
Wide fit in Heel and Toe, aim to downsize for adequate fit.
  • Perfect for bouldering, sport climbing, and technical face climbing
  • FV last: curved, moderately downturned, asymmetric profile
  • Microsuede and leather upper
  • Strap closure
  • Minimal Flexan 1.0mm midsole insert distributes the force on the foot and allows excellent flexibility in the back of the liner
  • Bi-Tension active rand provides maximum toe power
  • Rubber toe patch provides toe hooking power
  • 3.5mm 1/2 length Vibram® XS Grip 2 sole with a handcrafted 2mm Vibram® XS Grip 2 shaped heel for a soft, supple fit and feel
Drago Rock Climbing Shoe Drago Rock Climbing Shoe Drago Rock Climbing Shoe
Drago Rock Climbing Shoe
Responsive shoe for performance at the highest level
Average weight
398g (pair, Size 40)
Midsole
None
Outsole
Vibram® XS Grip2 (3.5mm)
Upper
Microsuede
Thais
Thais Bivouac Team Member

Drago's are an excellent climbing shoe designed for experienced climbers needing an aggressive arch and great toe and heel stability. This is definitely no a good shoe for any beginner or people who are not ready to have a very tight fitting shoe.
This shoe does really well in slabs and overhangs but will wear very quickly when climbing vertical walls. In general, Drago's are not a hardwearing shoe as the rubber is soft, so don't expect this shoe to last you as long as your other climbing shoes.

Fit tip:
Extremely tight
  • FZ last: aggressive, downturned and highly asymmetric
  • Multi-panel upper (7) with seamless big toe panel and offset four toe stitch for the best custom moulding fit
  • Full microfibre upper with a single VELCRO® strap and a deep Y attachment for secure hooking
  • A high-stretch gusset allows easy entry
  • Minimal Flexan 1.0mm midsole insert lining with a floating big toe pad for ultimate sensitivity
  • PCB active randing system gives the shoe top-level flexibility but still maintains the shape of the shoe
  • SRT toe rand system with M50 rubber for unrivalled toe-hooking ability
  • Microsuede upper for a smooth and comfortable fit
  • Structural toe wrapped in sticky rubber (M50) for support and friction
  • 3.5mm 1/3 length Vibram® XS Grip 2 sole with a handcrafted 2mm Vibram® XS Grip 2 heel