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Instinct VSR Rock Climbing Shoe Instinct VSR Rock Climbing Shoe Instinct VSR Rock Climbing Shoe
Instinct VSR Rock Climbing Shoe
Versatile shoe with grip and sensitivity; perfect for bouldering, sport climbing, and technical face climbing
Average weight
460g (pair, Size 40)
Outsole
Vibram® XS Grip2 (3.5mm)
Upper
Microsuede and leather
Midsole
Flexan 1mm
Thomas
Thomas Bivouac Team Member

Scarpa's Instinct VSR is an excellent outdoor all-rounder. Thriving in vert and overhanging sport and bouldering routes, the soft(ish) rubber allows enough sensitivity to read foot placement clearly through small holds, making a strong shoe for edging and smearing. The feature that stands out the most in this shoe is the super rugged toe rubber, with ridges and texture allowing for secure toe hooks. It is a slipper/Velcro combination, allowing for a secure fit, but not much fit adjustment in the lower shoe.

The shoe makes for a good beginner entry into performance-based shoes, with my break-in not being as bad as some more restrictive shoes. The shoe does fit relatively wide so cramming will be more minimal, but not as suited to narrow feet.

It is important to aim for a snug fit due to the more relaxed toe and heel, as the wider heel can be awkward on unfit sizing.

I've seen and used this shoe in many environments, indoor and outdoor. At crags, boulders and comps this shoe holds up nicely and, for a softer shoe the rubber holds well.

Fit tip:
Wide fit in Heel and Toe, aim to downsize for adequate fit.
  • Perfect for bouldering, sport climbing, and technical face climbing
  • FV last: curved, moderately downturned, asymmetric profile
  • Microsuede and leather upper
  • Strap closure
  • Minimal Flexan 1.0mm midsole insert distributes the force on the foot and allows excellent flexibility in the back of the liner
  • Bi-Tension active rand provides maximum toe power
  • Rubber toe patch provides toe hooking power
  • 3.5mm 1/2 length Vibram® XS Grip 2 sole with a handcrafted 2mm Vibram® XS Grip 2 shaped heel for a soft, supple fit and feel
Instinct Rock Women's Climbing Shoe Instinct Rock Women's Climbing Shoe Instinct Rock Women's Climbing Shoe
Instinct Rock Women's Climbing Shoe
Precision, aggressive hooking, for sport climbing and bouldering
Average weight
200g (pair, Size 38)
Outsole
Vibram® XS Edge (3.5mm)
Heel: Vibram® XS Grip 2 (2mm)
Upper
PU cage on a seamless microfibre panel
Insole
Flexan 1mm
Thais
Thais Bivouac Team Member

The Scarpa Instinct are my current climbing shoes and I absolutely love them. They definitely take a while to break into! The way they curve at the front and push all your toes together will make you feel a lot of pain initially and question your decision. Once you have broken into them, they are going to provide a lot of stability and security when climbing on slabs, they make really good toe hook companions and provide you with the grippiness you needed to smear on that wall and get the next hold. I personally prefer laces over velcro as you have a lot more adjustability and control over how tight or lose you want your shoe to feel.
This is a stiff climbing shoe, great for people who want to use it for both indoors and outdoors climbing. If you want the rubber on your shoe to last longer, then this model is a great option. The downside to the stiffer shoe is that it will feel like it's crushing your toes more, but if you are ready to take that next step in your climbing you should brave it, it will be worth it!

Fit tip:
Wider than other climbing shoes but crushes from the top. Good for wide feet.
  • Designed for bouldering and sport climbing
  • FJW last: reduced volume with slightly asymmetrical, downturned shape, with a medium angled toe box
  • Multi-panel upper (5) for the best custom moulding fit. PU cage on a seamless microfibre panel minimizes stretch and spreads the pressure of the lacing system across the upper
  • Active randing: Bi-Tension active randing system runs under the toes and draws back through the arch of the foot to give great flex with subtle tension
  • The PAF System is an innovative heel system that helps both spread the force of the heel tension for increased comfort and marginal heel hooking gains, with the sticky rubber rising higher up the Achilles
  • Half-length Flexan 1.0mm insert spreads the force in the forefoot and allows for excellent flexibility in the rear of the shoe
  • Bi-Tension active rand provides maximum toe power
  • Rubber toe patch provides toe hooking power
  • 3.5mm 2/3 length Vibram® XS Edge sole developed for maximum support to allow you to focus your weight on the tiniest of holds and will keep its shape through repeated stress (whether in hot or cold weather) with a hand-constructed 2mm Vibram® XS Grip 2 heel
Helix Women's Rock Climbing Shoe Helix Women's Rock Climbing Shoe Helix Women's Rock Climbing Shoe
Helix Women's Rock Climbing Shoe
Comfortable, durable and undeniably classic, popular flat-lasted shoe
Average weight
400g (pair, Size 38)
Outsole
Vibram® XS Edge (3.5mm)
Upper
1.8mm Suede leather
Midsole
Flexan 1.4mm
Thais
Thais Bivouac Team Member

The Helix climbing shoes were my second pair of climbing shoes and are still going strong by being used as my "comfortable pair". The suede feels a great deal more comfortable than a synthetic shoe even before you fully break them in which makes for the perfect step up from a Black Diamond Momentum. These make for a great first pair or a comfy multi-pitch shoe. The laces are very helpful when you want to adjust the width and volume of the shoe whether you have very narrow feet of wide feet.

Fit tip:
Great for all kinds of feet due to the lacing system and being leather.
  • FF last: flat profile, slightly asymmetric
  • Full suede leather upper
  • Laces allow easy entry and precision fit
  • Padded air mesh tongue for improved breathability
  • 3/4 length Nylon 1.4mm insert from heel to toe helps spread the force across the whole foot
  • Protective low-tension randing system
  • 4mm Vibram® XS Edge full length sole for stability and top-level edging performance
Clearance
Vapor V Women's Rock Climbing Shoe Vapor V Women's Rock Climbing Shoe Vapor V Women's Rock Climbing Shoe
Vapor V Women's Rock Climbing Shoe
Strikes a balance between confident smearing and refined toe power
Average weight
400g (pair, Size 38)
Outsole
Vibram® XS Gip 2 (3.5mm)
Upper
1.8mm Microsuede leather
Midsole
Talyn 1.5mm

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  • FR last: moderately downturned, moderately asymmetric, and medium to low angled toe box
  • Microfibre upper
  • Double VELCRO® closure make for a quick and easy fitting and provide a secure hold
  • New heel construction in microfibre reduces weight and dramatically enhances next-to-skin comfort in the Achilles area
  • New heel rand construction provides a more stable and higher friction zone for enhanced performance on more loaded heel hook
  • Revised toe rand, provides improved comfort and toe hook protection
  • Revised tongue construction is lighter, more breathable and retains its shape and positioning through the additional elastic in the closure
  • Full-length Talyn midsole and Bi-Tensionâ„¢ rand system offer the optimum level of support
  • 3.5mm Vibram® Grip 2/3-length sole for optimum friction