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Instinct VSR Rock Climbing Shoe Instinct VSR Rock Climbing Shoe Instinct VSR Rock Climbing Shoe
Instinct VSR Rock Climbing Shoe
Versatile shoe with grip and sensitivity; perfect for bouldering, sport climbing, and technical face climbing
Average weight
460g (pair, Size 40)
Midsole
Flexan 1mm
Outsole
Vibram® XS Grip2 (3.5mm)
Upper
Microsuede and leather
Thomas
Thomas Bivouac Team Member

Scarpa's Instinct VSR is an excellent outdoor all-rounder. Thriving in vert and overhanging sport and bouldering routes, the soft(ish) rubber allows enough sensitivity to read foot placement clearly through small holds, making a strong shoe for edging and smearing. The feature that stands out the most in this shoe is the super rugged toe rubber, with ridges and texture allowing for secure toe hooks. It is a slipper/Velcro combination, allowing for a secure fit, but not much fit adjustment in the lower shoe.

The shoe makes for a good beginner entry into performance-based shoes, with my break-in not being as bad as some more restrictive shoes. The shoe does fit relatively wide so cramming will be more minimal, but not as suited to narrow feet.

It is important to aim for a snug fit due to the more relaxed toe and heel, as the wider heel can be awkward on unfit sizing.

I've seen and used this shoe in many environments, indoor and outdoor. At crags, boulders and comps this shoe holds up nicely and, for a softer shoe the rubber holds well.

Fit tip:
Wide fit in Heel and Toe, aim to downsize for adequate fit.
  • Perfect for bouldering, sport climbing, and technical face climbing
  • FV last: curved, moderately downturned, asymmetric profile
  • Microsuede and leather upper
  • Strap closure
  • Minimal Flexan 1.0mm midsole insert distributes the force on the foot and allows excellent flexibility in the back of the liner
  • Bi-Tension active rand provides maximum toe power
  • Rubber toe patch provides toe hooking power
  • 3.5mm 1/2 length Vibram® XS Grip 2 sole with a handcrafted 2mm Vibram® XS Grip 2 shaped heel for a soft, supple fit and feel
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Smoke/Yellow Sole 3/4 front
Vapor V Rock Climbing Shoe
Versatile climbing shoe
Average weight
480g (pair, Size 41)
Midsole
Dynamic Flexan insert
Outsole
Vibram® XS Edge
Upper
1.8mm Microsuede Leather
Thais
Thais Bivouac Team Member

My partner has been using Vapor Vs for the past 3 years and keeps going back to them every time. These climbing shoes are not only a great next step from flatter beginner shoes, but they can also be used further on your climbing journey. They are stiff ish shoes which means you can use them both indoors and outdoors, the velcro makes it easy to get in and out of them, which you will appreciate between climbs and the shoe tapers enough at the tip to provide stability on next to nothing foot holds. If you go for the appropriate size, this shoe will take a little bit of breaking into and getting used to but through the pain they will make for a great climbing companion.

Fit tip:
Good for a variety of types of feet
  • Relatively low volume FR last with a slightly asymmetrical and slightly downturned profile
  • Low toe profile and low volume shape adapts well to slim feet
  • Works for all climbing disciplines
  • Seven-panel construction with a seamless big toe area and low-profile panels on the other toes, ensuring a precise and customisable fit
  • Upper panels are made of a microfibre, while the lower panels are suede leather
  • Dual Velcro closure allows for an adjustable and easy fit
  • The Bi-Tension System extends from the toe to the arch, providing high flexibility with optimal tension
  • Full-length Dynamic Flexan insert, extending from heel to toe, for optimal force distribution across the entire foot
  • Vibram® XS Edge spread over 2/3 of the length, with a thickness of 3.5mm
  • Can be resoled to extend the life of your climbing shoes. It is best to do this before the wear and tear gets excessive to preserve the performance and prolong the life